Step by Step Instructions for
Applying Eye Makeup
Why is applying eye makeup important for stunning eyes?
Your eyes are great communicators!
They give your face energy, and regardless of their shape and size, they help create your own individuality.
The purpose of eye shadow is to bring out the true beauty of your eye color.
Here's the first rule. You will not match eye shadow to what you
are wearing. I will help you choose color to complement your eyes not
You love shopping for eye shadows
and I'm sure most of the items in your makeup bag are shadows. You
want beautiful eyes but applying the right color in the right place
Let's start by determining your eye shape. If you already know your eye shape go directly to eye makeup tips.
Know Your Eye Shape
- Deep-Set Eyes - your entire eye socket is set back and needs to be brought forward.
- Hooded Eyes - when you look at your eyes in
a relaxed position can you see your eyelid? The more the lid is hidden
the more hooded the eye is. If you think you are the only one
"blessed" with this eye shape you're not. It is the most common one I
see as a makeup artist.
- Prominent Eyes - the eye lid is the most
noticeable part of your eye. A prominent eye has little brow bone
because the focus is on the eye lid.
- Round Eyes - the basic shape of the eye is round, and your goal is to create more of an almond shape.
- Small Eyes - a small eye is smaller than perhaps the rest of the features on your face. The object is to create a better balance.
- Asian Eyes - this eye shape has a flat surface and the goal is to create an illusion of contours.
Here's the hard part but I promise it will get easier.
Do You Have Wide-Set or Close-Set Eyes?
All eye shapes can also be wide-set or close-set. Make this determination before proceeding.
To determine if your eyes are wide or close-set, look at your eyes:
- Take a visual measurement of the width of your eye from the outer corner to the inner corner.
- Now take a visual measurement between the eyes from the inner corner of the left eye to the inner corner of the right eye.
You now have two measurements you are working with. Which measurement is wider?
- If they are about the same you have average eyes.
- If your eye width measurement is greater than the measurement between the eyes, you have close-set eyes.
- If your eye width measurement is less than the measurement between the eyes, you have wide-set eyes.
It's decision making time!
If your eyes are either wide-set or deep-set follow the application method for these types.
If not, choose from one of the other mentioned eye shapes.
Choose Your Application Method For Your Eye Shape
- Wide-Set Eyes
- Close-Set Eyes
- Deep-Set Eyes
- Hooded Eyes
- Prominent Eyes
- Round Eyes
- Small Eyes
- Asian Eyes
Using a Primer
Note: If you don't want your eye shadow to crease, use a primer!
Always use an eye shadow primer
to help create the perfect canvas for long-lasting, crease-proof eye
shadow. It also helps to eliminate redness in the eye area.
Primer is a must for hooded and oily eyelids.
Applying Eye Makeup for Wide-Set Eyes
- Apply a light neutral eye shadow color and apply over entire eye with an eye shadow brush.
- Apply a neutral mid-tone color to the entire crease, blending
from the inner corner of the eye by the nose to the outer corner. Blend
up onto the brow bone.
- Apply the third color to the entire lid and blend up on to the brow bone.
- Apply eyeliner to the entire upper and lower lash line, helping draw the eyes closer together.
Applying Eye Makeup for Close-Set Eyes
- Apply a shimmery light neutral shadow over the entire eye
- Apply a neutral mid-tone color starting in the middle of the
crease and blending upward and outward. Avoid going all the way up to
the brow. Also apply this color to the outer third of the lower lid.
You goal is to have the most intense color near the outer corners of the
- Choose a third complimentary color, which I call the "fun" color
and apply to eye lid. A fun color would be a light shade of turquoise,
periwinkle, green or pink that is chosen based on the color of your
- Apply eyeliner only to the outer half of the upper and lower lash line.
Applying Eye Makeup for Deep-Set Eyes
- To bring eyes forward, choose a shimmery light eye shadow color and apply over the entire eye lid using an eye shadow brush.
- Next, apply a medium contour color to the brow bone. A third
"fun" color can be used on the eyelid but it has to be fairly light
otherwise you defeat the purpose of step 1. A light periwinkle, green
or rose color would work depending on your eye color
- Apply eyeliner right above and under the lower eyelashes with a
dark pencil or shadow liner. Never use black because that will make
your eyes look smaller. The key is to define the eye and bring it
Applying Eye Makeup for Hooded Eyes
- Apply a light shimmery shadow to the entire eyelid.
- Apply a neutral matte mid-tone into the crease and on the outer
corner of the lid. Blend into the crease and up on to the brow bone
- To add an additional color to the lid, choose any light color that compliments your eye color.
- Apply eyeliner on the outer two thirds on the upper lid and half way on the lower lid starting at the outer corner.
Applying Eye Makeup for Prominent Eyes
- Apply a medium neutral shadow over the entire eye.
- Apply a darker neutral shadow over the entire eyelid from lashes
to the crease. Blend upward and outward to brow bone. Avoid shimmery
or frosted shadows.
- Apply eyeliner to three quarters of the upper and lower lash line.
Applying Eye Makeup for Round Eyes
- Apply a light neutral shadow to the entire eye area blending up towards the brow.
- Apply a medium to dark neutral shadow in the crease and in a
widened triangle at the outer third of the eye and slightly beyond,
wrapping the corner of the eye towards the eyelash line.
- Use a light neutral shadow to highlight under the brows.
- Apply eyeliner halfway on the upper and lower lid extending the line outward slightly at the outer edge.
Applying Eye Makeup for Small Eyes
- Apply a light neutral shadow over the entire eye.
- Apply a medium neutral shadow from eyelashes to crease.
- Apply a medium to dark neutral shadow in the crease and in a
triangle on outer third of eye. Blend well using upward and outward
- Apply eyeliner half way on upper lid and one third on lower lash line.
Applying Eye Makeup for Asian Eyes
- Apply a medium neutral shadow on entire eye.
- Apply a dark neutral shadow to define crease and in a triangle at the outer edge of the eye blending upward towards the brow.
- Apply eyeliner to entire eye, fading out the color as you work towards the nose.
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